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It means that they don’t need a traditional water bowl to drink from and instead we can recreate the system they use in the wild, which is to drink from droplets of water that have formed on plant leaves and tree bark. So all you need is a little misting bottle filled with plain room temperature water and spray one side of their enclosure wall with 1-2 bottle pumps of water every other day. You can also spray 1-2 pumps of the same water onto their enclosure substrate at the same time to aid with humidity. When using any type of electric heating equipment you MUST also get a thermostat to control the temperature. I’ve seen and heard some horror stories where people haven’t connected a thermostat and the consequences range from an overheated dehydrated pet, to some being cooked alive, and the worst case scenario of the house burning down. I sound dramatic I know, but these heat mats can get super hot if allowed to run continuously at full power, and I know thermostats are the most expensive part of the set up, but it’s a small price to pay to ensure you don’t kill your spider at best, and burn your house down at worst. Redone Spider Wax offers a convenient application method using your fingertips. Begin by taking a small amount of wax, about the size of a hazelnut, and spread it evenly between your hands. Apply the wax to either dry or damp hair. For those seeking more impressive and playful hair styles, rub the wax in the palm of your hand and clap your hands together. This technique creates a spider web-like structure in the palm of your hand. Proceed to apply these web-like formations onto your hair, using your hands or a suitable comb to shape and style as desired. There are several options when it comes to what jumping spiders can and will eat, and the majority of the time it’s a delicate balance between what the owner is OK dealing with, and what the spider needs to stay healthy. Just remember that whatever you do decide to feed your spider, it will all be live food and as such will need its own care routine in addition to your spider. Some don’t take up much space or upkeep, and some will need enclosures of their own as well as food and bedding.

One of the notable advantages of Redone Spider Wax is its effectiveness in providing volume and shape to the hair. Thanks to its water-based formula, the product can be easily removed from the hair without leaving any residue behind. Even on stubborn hair types, Redone Spider Wax delivers excellent results, allowing you to maintain your desired style throughout the day. Furthermore, its special formulation ensures that your hair remains residue-free. The addition of a masculine fragrance provides a refreshing sensation to your hair, leaving it smelling great throughout the day. Below is a basic rundown of some of the foods available for jumpers that I have fed to my gang along with some of the pro’s and con’s of each. In time I will release a comprehensive guide of feeder insects including how to care for each and also how to breed them if you want to save some money instead of having to buy new ones every few weeks. There are various other feeder insects you can use but I haven't actually used those myself and don't want to provide information on things I haven't experienced first hand. My advice, if you don't want to try any of those I've mentioned, is to ask in the Facebook groups for jumping spiders and ask other keepers what works for them. Spider's paws (yes their feet are actually called paws, how cute!) are incredibly sensitive and just like human hands, their paws can feel things like temperature, airflow, direction, movement, and vibrations, and if some scientists are correct, they can even feel the blood pumping through our veins as well as our bioelectrical current. Basically, it’s a super weird sensation when they touch our skin! Imagine you're standing on a train platform and one comes belting past without stopping at the station. All that noise and vibration, the heat of the train engines, the warm air as its disturbed, and the wind it all creates, that’s the comparison I use for how it must feel to a jumping spider when being handled by us. Similar to how we get used to being in train stations, your jumping spider may also get used to being handled by you. I will do an article on their behavioural differences soon as it can be an interesting topic with lengthy answers when digging super deep into it. The key is to not overfeed them as this speeds up their growth and shortens the time between moults, which in turn makes them mature faster.

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Purpose built enclosures aren’t the only option, and many people like to get more creative by modifying sweet jars, plastic storage boxes, and even glass terrariums, just remember they need to have all the following features to provide your spider with safe housing. Males tend to mature faster than females with a typical lifespan documented to be between 18 months to 2 years, but we are actually starting to see more and more spiders living past that average as our knowledge and care of them get better in captivity and we're are able to extend their lives a little. They do have venom although it’s not medically significant to us, and nobody has ever died from a jumping spider bite (as far as we know. The chances of anyone having died are closer to zero, but for legal reasons, I have to say “as far as we know”). Jumping spiders are mostly sexually dimorphic, meaning that once mature, males look different from females in colour, often in size, as well as some differences in their body shape and parts.

Exactly the same as green bottles but larger and can be fed from 6th instar onward. If feeding these to sub adult/adult spiders you may need to feed a little more frequently than if feeding them locusts. Female spiders once sexually mature may lay eggs even if they’ve never had a special man in their life 😉 This is actually something I didn’t know myself until after getting into keeping jumpers as it wasn’t something that was mentioned in the Google care research I found, and my first spiders were a male, and a female who never actually laid any eggs at all. Jumping spiders come in a vast range of sizes depending on things like species, diet, genetics, and of course their age. There can also be some confusion depending on whether the size measured is just the body, or includes their leg span as well, and you’ll find different countries and different breeders use different methods. For the sake of this article, I’ll use the measurement which includes their leg span. This is also a good volume hair wax for when you need a boost. On high-top fades and fauxhawks, shape your hair up or forward to amplify your style. The wax lifts the hair and holds it securely in place, so you can go about your business and stay looking fine.I have actually been bitten 4 times in total, 3 of which were dry bites (no venom injected) and I don’t actually class them as bites at all because of the circumstances surrounding them. In this particular incident, I was actually bitten by 3 of my spiders within minutes of each other which was the first sign that there was perhaps something else going on other than them biting me for the sake of it. Another thing people often get wrong is tweezer feeding their spider. Jumping spiders love to hunt, and they're amazing at it. Some will spend a little time stalking their prey first, and some will just pounce straight away, it totally depends on the spider. Allowing them to hunt as they would in the wild provides them with enrichment and stimulation. So when feeding I recommend putting the prey item into the eye line of your spider, and then leave them to do the rest on their own. The only time I do think it's OK to tweezer feed is for very young spiders that are moving onto larger prey for the first time, injured spiders that may need a little helping hand, and for very old spiders that find it very hard to hunt. One of many cool things about jumpers is that they don't NEED to be handled or have physical interactions with us to live happy healthy lives. They’re quite content in their little habitats providing all their basic care requirements are met, and they’re just as fascinating to own when only admiring them through the walls of their enclosure. I highly recommend misting your enclosure once a day, daily. The main reason is, that you want to be sure you provide jumping spiders with something to drink. As they’ll drink from the water droplets. But that’s not always feasible, a day or so in-between misting will be fine. Be sure to not too heavily mist your enclosure. Especially when it comes to slings, large water droplets can cause your slings to drown. But how? Jumping spiders have what is known as booklungs, on the underside of their abdomen. This is how they breathe, getting trapped in a water droplet can and will result in drowning. Even when mating a male and a female, it does sometimes result in the female having a munch on her man before, during, and even after he’s performed his duties. 😬

All 3 spiders interacted with me first and chose to come onto my hand as I was only in their enclosure doing some tank maintenance with no plans or attempts to handle them, so I know it wasn't caused by me forcing them to be handled. I also want to mention that some spiders won’t ever get used to it and won’t tolerate being handled at all. I have a couple of such spiders which are “look but don't touch” and others that I can and do handle, but that’s absolutely their choice.Being able to get into the enclosure is another important feature. Whether you decide to handle your spider or not, you still need an access point to be able to get at least one hand inside to feed, water, do some basic tank maintenance throughout your spiders life, and also for if there’s an emergency and you need to get your spider out of the enclosure.