Lonely Planet Sri Lanka (Travel Guide)

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Sri Lanka has a huge number of bank holidays, and almost half of these are poya days, marking the arrival of the full moon, an auspicious event in Sri Lankan Buddhism. All poya days are dry days – alcohol is not sold in shops, restaurants or bars (though you can still access your hotel room’s minibar). The ban on alcohol also extends to other religious events such as the Buddhist festival of Vesak in May. 5. Carry cash: the currency is the Sri Lankan rupee You’ll leave the gleaming white dagobas (stupas) behind at Anuradhapura, and in their place multi-hued kovils (temples) start to color the countryside as you steam into Sri Lanka’s Hindu north. You'll also leave behind Sri Lanka's major tourist crowds, as international visitors short on time tend to skip the splendors of the island's northern coast. It’s possible to make bookings 30 days in advance for reserved first- and second-class seats and berths, as well as for the observation saloon carriages. Demand often outstrips seat supply during high season (December to April), so plan ahead if you can. Get more travel inspiration, tips and exclusive offers sent straight to your inbox with our weekly newsletter. Kumana National Park, Eastern Province Best alternative to the crowded parks Sri Lanka is home to an estimated 4000 wild Asian elephants, best seen in their natural habitats, the country’s national parks. During the dry months from July to September, the large reservoirs in Kaudulla and Minneriya National Parks draw herds of wild Asian elephants where they graze on grass, bathe and play together. Hot days see elephants sheltering in the nearby jungles, but in the afternoon, around 4pm, they slowly emerge. This is your chance to see hundreds of the creatures hanging out by the lakes, the largest gathering of wild elephants in the world.

It takes a surprising amount of time to travel around Sri Lanka thanks to winding routes and the limited number of roads crossing the interior of the island. Traffic also has to navigate a variety of hazards including badly surfaced roads and roaming wildlife (buffaloes, cows, feral dogs and even elephants). To do the island justice, don’t rush. You’ll need at least a month for a circuit of the island with detours to national parks, ancient cities and tea plantations inland. The best ways to get around in Sri Lanka at any time of year Lahugala Kitulana National Park, Eastern Province Best for combining history with birdwatching Unawatuna, 6km (3.7 miles) from history-laden Galle Fort, is still one of the most sought-after swimming beaches in Sri Lanka, despite encroaching development. Thanks to an offshore reef, its azure water is relatively calm for most of the year. Sun beds line the beach, Jet Skis buzz around the bay and although it gets busy during peak season, it never feels crowded. Unawatuna’s dining scene is sophisticated, and there are regular weekend beach parties. Dalawella Where to try it: Visit roadside hopper stalls for an inexpensive Sri Lankan meal. For a gourmet experience, reserve a table at the fine-dining Palmyrah Restaurant in the Renuka City Hotel. Devour string hoppers with curry Sri Lanka's major cities and towns are extremely well-connected by train. Overall, it’s an easy, convenient and sustainable way to travel. Of course, sometimes the trains can be delayed – but isn’t that a risk almost everywhere? We suggest not giving in to cautionary calls on travel forums to avoid train travel due to delays, as you’ll absolutely be missing out. Trains offer some of the most efficient, relaxing and spectacular ways to get to a destination in Sri Lanka, plus they avoid pesky city traffic.If there’s one thing to try before you leave Sri Lanka, it’s hoppers ( aappa in Sinhala; appam in Tamil), bowl-like pancakes made from rice flour batter. With crispy edges and fluffy centers, plain hoppers are eaten with curries or a spicy sambal (chili paste) called lunu miris made with onions and dried red chili. Sri Lanka’s tropical beaches are unanimously adored. Crafted from a 1340km (833-mile) coastline, its countless topographically varied beaches, coves and bays attract sun-seekers, fun lovers and surfers throughout the year. Wildlife plays its part too – beaches are vital nesting grounds for endangered marine turtles, while blue whales are sighted at sea. Some train trips are so scenic, they’re an activity in themselves. The six-hour ride from Kandy to Ella, which weaves through seemingly endless tea fields, is right up there among the world’s best train routes. A recently renovated route from Colombo to the historical city of Galle conversely runs on the edge of the west coast, offering mesmeric views of the Indian Ocean. The peak tourist season in Sri Lanka runs from December to April. If you avoid these months, particularly December, January, and April when local New Year and holidays begin, you can save on accommodation. May to September is the northwest monsoon season, but don’t fret: Sri Lanka’s tropical climate means monsoon downpours don't last long. Weligama’s smiling 2km (1.2-mile) bay has emerged as one of the best surfing beaches in Sri Lanka for beginners, thanks to a forgiving sandy-bottomed break. Rent boards and book lessons from the surf outfits to the west of the bay – most are run by young surfers with first-hand knowledge of the local breaks. Weligama’s fine sand attracts families too, and there are plenty of places to eat, drink and sleep in every price range. Kabalana

Most visitors to Yala National Park want to see the endangered Sri Lankan leopard. However, overcrowding is common and safari 4WDs have been known to scare the animals away. You'll never be short of flavourful food in Sri Lanka, but some dishes and experiences are seasonal, often tied to the island's cultural and religious festivities. The trip from Colombo to Kandy is just a warm-up for Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train ride: the British-era Main Line, built as a conduit for Sri Lanka’s most famous export: tea. A vision of tropical bliss, Mirissa Beach boasts powdery pale sand, while its azure water is framed by an arc of coconut palms. The west side is the nicest and has the broadest expanse of sand; as the bay curves gently around to the east it meets up with the roar of the Galle-Matara Rd. Close to the centre of Mirissa bay is a much-photographed sandbar that connects to a tiny island that you can walk to at low tide.The western end also has a reasonable right point break for surfers.Stop by a Hindu temple during Pongal (a Hindu harvest festival celebrated by Tamils) for a plate of sweet pongal, a rice porridge made with raisins. To celebrate Eid, Muslim families in Sri Lanka prepare a coconut custard called watalappan sweetened with jaggery and topped with cashews for extra crunch.

In Sri Lanka, buses fill the gaps train infrastructure can’t, connecting much of the country. There are both public and private buses to choose from. With numerous flatwater lagoons and plenty of steady wind, Sri Lanka’s northwestern coast offers some of the best kitesurfing in the world. A 3.5-hour drive north of Colombo is the lesser-explored Kalpitiya Peninsula, which is still relatively new to many overseas tourists. The region is home to sandy beaches and small fishing hamlets with droves of wild donkeys strolling around large grasslands. Planning tip: Arrive early in the morning to beat the sweltering sun and get the best of this wonderful archaeological park to yourself. The Polonnaruwa ruins are crowded during weekends, school holidays, and on the full moon. 17. Get close to nature with a stay in a treehouse While Sinharaja Forest Reserve is Sri Lanka's top destination for birders, small Lahugala National Park is well worth visiting for avian encounters. Come in the late afternoon, when you can also watch elephants and buffalo grazing peacefully in the water-logged beru grass. The park's forests of tall satinwood, rosewood, and palu trees are home to dozens of species of forest birds, including the rare red-faced malkoha. Most Lankan curries are based on coconut milk, with a blend of spices – including but not limited to chili, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, lemongrass, rampe (pandanus leaves), curry leaves, mustard, and tamarind.Planning tip: If you fancy learning how to cook curry dishes, head over to the family-run Sea Waves Restaurant in Unawatuna, but don’t leave without trying the whole butterfish cooked in a secret umami-rich homemade sauce. 12. Learn the life of Sri Lanka's indigenous people